Vietnam. Un país a través de sus trabajadores.

Un país a través de sus trabajadores. Para muchos de nosotros es imposible oír Vietnam y no asociarlo a la cruenta guerra que tuvieron que lidiar. Como siempre sucede, los que terminan sufriendo los latigazos de las guerras, es la población de a pie, gente trabajadora que lejana a los intereses de los que la provocan, acaban perdiendo familiares y esperanza.

Pero si algo tiene el ser humano es capacidad de sobreponerse a las adversidades. Y en esto la población vietnamita es experta. Trágicamente Vietnam no ha sido el campo de batalla de una sola guerra. Mongoles, franceses, japoneses han lidiado batallas para apropiarse estas fértiles tierras con forma de Dragón.

Hace tan solo 40 años que las últimas tropas estadounidenses abandonaron Vietnam y hoy en día podemos encontrar un país en el que los vestigios de un colonialismo Francés que comenzó a dividir Vietnam en Norte-Sur sigue vigente y todavía es una realidad más que palpable.

El norte, donde la cultura comunista es todavía una realidad cotidiana, prima lo rural y la tranquilad. Podemos encontrar una clase trabajadora mas uniforme, dedicada principalmente al sector primario, aunque el auge del turismo y la apertura al exterior comienza a hacerse notar en el resto de sectores.

El sur, con su caótica representante Saigón (actual Ho Chi Minh, en honor al líder comunista que hoy en día, en una estatua, contempla como se desarrollan oficinas y McDonald´s a su alrededor) apuesta por un desarrollo más orientado al capitalismo.

En Vietnam se desarrolló una de las guerras mas “populares”. Cine, música y su repercusión en la cultura fueron enormes. Surgieron voces poderosas en contra de la guerra. Mohamed Ali fue despojado de su titulo mundial de boxeo al negarse a incorporarse al ejercito “En ninguna circunstancia llevaré el uniforme del ejercito, ni viajaré 16.000km para ir a asesinar, matar y quemar pobres gentes”.

Mather Luther King sentenció “Nos vemos una y otra vez frente a la cruel ironía de observar a chicos blancos y negros en la TV mientras matan y mueren juntos por una Nación que no ha podido sentarlos juntas en las mismas escuelas”.

Mientras, en el campo de batalla el caos se apoderaba de la situación. Los soldados rasos americanos asesinaron al 25% de sus propios oficiales al mando. Las atrocidades que sucedieron marcaron a una sociedad que aclamaba paz y amor desde la otra punta del globo.

La famosa Shell Oil fue una de las industrias que más se vió favorecida por el uso de Napalm (gasolina gelatinosa que devastó Vietnam) así como Monsanto fue la principal empresa suministradora de “Agente Naranja” herbicida con potentes dioxinas que permanecieron en la tierra y provocó malformaciones genéticas a mas de medio millón de recién nacidos. Actualmente Monsanto ha comprado Bayer, mezclando en la misma empresa pesticidas, alimentación y fármacos.

La icónica fotografía “la niña del Napalm” de Nick Ut, fotógrafo vietnamita, dio la vuelta al mundo y ayudo a poner fin a las atrocidades por mostrar, en solo una imagen, el horror que se estaba viviendo allí.

En la actualidad Vietnam se debate entre la tradición y el desarrollo, en muchos casos devastador. Muchas zonas turísticas no cuentan con las infraestructuras necesarias y lucen completamente sucias. Paradisiacas playas están inundadas de basura y en otras, limpias, no te cruzas con nadie. Grandes multinacionales tienen localizadas sus fabricas por las mano de obra barata y su legislación medioambiental mas permisiva.

Pero muchas zonas de Vietnam siguen siendo un oasis de autenticidad, lo cual , en los días que corren, con un turismo masificado, se valora. Con una sencilla moto, desplazándote apenas media hora de cualquier sitio turístico, te sumerges en un Vietnam puro donde puedes encontrar la verdadera esencia de esta clase trabajadora que a golpe de azada, pescando o en un sucio taller curan y enmiendan las heridas del pasado con una actividad y alegría contagiosa.

Silvio Rodriguez compuso una serie de canciónes, cuyas incomodas letras obligan a la reflexión sobre la complejo mundo en el que vivimos:

Yo vivo de tu matanza,
yo sueño de tu agonía,
yo canto de tu pudor.
Mi niña duerme tranquila
porque le costó la vida
a más de un retoño en flor.
(Vietnam, yo vivo).

Da vergüenza acariciar al hijo,
hacer amor, tener domingo,
disfrutar de ver llover.
Da vergüenza tanto hogar seguro,
tanto plan para el futuro,
tanta bien calmada sed.
Da vergüenza arreglarse los dientes,
tener carro, hogar caliente,
ropa limpia, perro fiel.
Da vergüenza cuanto bueno sume,
mientras que Vietnam asume
un trago más de nuestra hiel.
(Vietnam, Arte Poética)

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189 comentarios

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